Legendary Confectioneries – Lelóczky and Mazsola

Lelóczky was as much a household name in Győr as the Gerbeaud Confectionery was in Budapest. Its story follows the pattern of the era’s renowned patisseries, centered around a determined founder who, through hard work, envisioned a business that the city’s citizens would remember fondly for decades. In our latest selection, we bring to life the stories of the “Leló” and the Mazsola confectioneries.

The Lelóczky Confectionery

The founder of Lelóczky, Gyula Lelóczky, was born in Esztergom. Instead of following in his father’s footsteps as a miller, he trained as a confectioner in the capital. He launched his independent business in 1886 in one of Győr’s busiest areas, Kazinczy Street. The shop quickly became popular—not only did it serve sweets, but also light meals. By November 1896, the owner announced that he had moved the shop to his own house on Deák Ferenc Street.

As was customary at the time, the aging founder intended the confectionery for his son, Jenő. Accordingly, he sent him abroad to study. When young Jenő took over the business in 1920, the first thing he did was apply what he had learned on his travels. One such innovation was setting up a chocolate-making facility. But beyond launching a chocolate manufactory, he also planned to remodel the patisserie itself. Inspired by Western models, he aimed to boost on-site consumption, leading to the creation of the Yellow and Blue Salons.

It wasn’t just the elegant interior that gained fame—the patisserie’s terrace also became widely known for its beautiful evergreen plants and marble tables. The indoor rooms were referred to as the tea salon, while the terrace was called the outdoor confectionery. The first branch of the shop opened on Baross Street in 1923, followed by another at Tisza István Square in 1933.

On January 1, 1935, the patisserie celebrated its 50th anniversary, though the occasion was worth celebrating for more than just the milestone. Jenő Lelóczky received the highest honor at a national master competition, becoming a master craftsman adorned with a golden laurel wreath. In 1937, he was awarded the Gerbeaud Prize, and the following year, he represented Hungary at an exhibition in Berlin. Later, the governor awarded him the Gold Cross of Merit for his four decades of contributions to Hungarian industry. In 1942, the shop underwent minor renovations, but as we’ve so often read, it was nationalized in 1948.

In 1953, the venue came back to life, operating under the name Batthyány Wine Tavern. In 1954, it became a first-class restaurant, and by 1957, it served the citizens of Győr as the Blue Danube Espresso. To this day, a catering venue operates in the place of the former illustrious confectionery.

The Mazsola Confectionery

On February 14, 1964, the newspaper Kisalföld reported that the Mazsola confectionery had opened in the newly built Sziget residential area. According to the article, the new venue was unique in the country: although officially classified as a small confectionery, it also operated as a music venue. It had its own production facility and was expected to open a garden area in the spring. The managers of the Catering Company primarily wanted to appeal to the youth of Győr—therefore, wine and brandy were not sold, but on Sunday afternoons, musical tea events were held, featuring whipped coffee and kuglóf.

At the time, changes were made to the classification of hospitality establishments. A regulation stated that venues with their own production facilities could not operate as espresso bars, only as confectioneries.

So, if cakes were baked or ice cream was made on-site, it could only be designated a confectionery—even if it had previously operated as an espresso bar. What did this mean in practice? Guests could not be served beer—only liqueurs or syrups.

The lawmakers likely aimed to eliminate the pub-like nature of such entertainment venues, though the effectiveness of this was questionable. Why? As Kisalföld's journalist pointed out, while guests couldn't drink beer, wine, or brandy, they could drink cognac or cherry schnapps—both of which have a significant alcohol content.

Returning to Mazsola, its "musical" aspect soon became somewhat symbolic—after the contract with the band was terminated, a jukebox was installed in the space. In the 1980s, complaints about the Mazsola increased, as late-night partying disturbed the neighbors. The building still stands, but there’s no longer any sign of the whipped coffee or the classic lúdláb cake.

TÉ

translated by L. G.

Sources:

The Lelóczky Confectionery

The Mazsola Confectionery

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